New Orleans' world-famous restaurants are starved for help

MARY FOSTER, Associated Press Writer
AP Worldstream
01-24-2006
Dateline: NEW ORLEANS
Ralph Brennan can get the oysters, crawfish and other seafood he needs for The Redfish Grill and his other French Quarter restaurants. What he can't find are enough busboys, waiters, dishwashers and other kitchen help.

Restaurateurs in this storm-battered city known the world over for its zesty food have raised wages, lined up trailers for workers, even put them up in their own homes.

Still, many restaurants have had to scale back for lack of workers. Some places are open for lunch and not dinner, or vice versa.

"We're paying more, we're offering great benefits, we're doing everything we can think of, but it's hard getting people to come back," Brennan said. "I think a lot of people just aren't interested in returning right now."

Only about one-third of New Orleans' half-million residents have returned since Katrina struck Aug. 29, and many parts of the city still lack electricity and other vital services.

Maggie Trenary, 27, a waitress at the Brennan family's Palace Cafe on Canal Street, said she put in 15-hour shifts soon after returning to the city in October.

"It's been very stressful," she said. "Every day you never know who's coming in work, who's not going to show up. At first the customers were very understanding, but not so much now. They think things should be back to normal."

Trenary has other worries too, like trying to pay rent on an apartment in suburban New Orleans while trying to keep the mortgage on her wrecked home paid.

Eric Offray, the 39-year-old kitchen manager at Palace Cafe, finds himself sweeping, mopping and handling other chores around the restaurant these days.

"I can hardly wait to see some of those guys walk through that door," he said. "If a dishwasher came in now, I'd probably cry."

Before the storm, metropolitan New Orleans had 3,414 restaurants that generated $2.1 billion (euro1.71 billion) in annual sales, according to the Louisiana Restaurant Association. They employed 53,500 directly and an additional 23,000 in support industries.

Since Katrina, 34 percent of those restaurants have reopened, and about 15,000 employees have returned, the association said this week.

"If we had 10,000 more people available, we could put them to work immediately," said Jim Funk, the organization's chief executive.

The restaurant association has established a relief fund to help pay expenses for displaced workers who return to the city. So far the group has given 74 restaurant workers about $200 (euro163) each.

Glen Armantrout has five of his six Acme Oyster House restaurants open but is struggling to keep them staffed. To help, Armantrout has worked out a deal with a Kmart behind one of the restaurants to put 10 FEMA trailers for his staff in its parking lot.

"I'm letting people live at my house while they look for a place," Armantrout said. "Right now, I have an oyster shucker and a cook living with me."

He had an employee-referral program even before Katrina, but has increased the payout from $250 (euro204) to $500 (euro407). Customers as well as employees are eligible to collect.

Barbara Krieger, restaurateur Dickie Brennan's assistant, has become an almost full-time housing coordinator for his restaurants. She tries to track down affordable apartment buildings and has become proficient in FEMA's housing regulations.

"Just after the hurricane it was almost impossible to find affordable apartments," she said. "Now a few more are opening, but some are too far for people to commute if they don't have cars."

Restaurateurs also are working to establish a Hospitality Village just across the Mississippi River from the French Quarter. It would accommodate 300 trailers and provide easy access to the Quarter by ferry, said Ralph Brennan's cousin Dickie, the owner of three French Quarter restaurants.

In the meantime, he said, the shortage of help is making it difficult for his business and his employees alike.

"People are working some long hours because of it, and it's a strain," he said.

Copyright 2006, AP News All Rights Reserved
New Orleans' world-famous restaurants are starved for helpMARY FOSTER, Associated Press Writer
AP Worldstream
01-24-2006
Dateline: NEW ORLEANS
Ralph Brennan can get the oysters, crawfish and other seafood he needs for The Redfish Grill and his other French Quarter restaurants. What he can't find are enough busboys, waiters, dishwashers and other kitchen help.

Restaurateurs in this storm-battered city known the world over for its zesty food have raised wages, lined up trailers for workers, even put them up in their own homes.

Still, many restaurants have had to scale back for lack of workers. Some places are open for lunch and not dinner, or vice versa.

"We're paying more, we're offering great benefits, we're doing everything we can think of, but it's hard getting people to come back," Brennan said. "I think a lot of people just aren't interested in returning right now."

Only about one-third of New Orleans' half-million residents have returned since Katrina struck Aug. 29, and many parts of the city still lack electricity and other vital services.

Maggie Trenary, 27, a waitress at the Brennan family's Palace Cafe on Canal Street, said she put in 15-hour shifts soon after returning to the city in October.

"It's been very stressful," she said. "Every day you never know who's coming in work, who's not going to show up. At first the customers were very understanding, but not so much now. They think things should be back to normal."

Trenary has other worries too, like trying to pay rent on an apartment in suburban New Orleans while trying to keep the mortgage on her wrecked home paid.

Eric Offray, the 39-year-old kitchen manager at Palace Cafe, finds himself sweeping, mopping and handling other chores around the restaurant these days.

"I can hardly wait to see some of those guys walk through that door," he said. "If a dishwasher came in now, I'd probably cry."

Before the storm, metropolitan New Orleans had 3,414 restaurants that generated $2.1 billion (euro1.71 billion) in annual sales, according to the Louisiana Restaurant Association. They employed 53,500 directly and an additional 23,000 in support industries.

Since Katrina, 34 percent of those restaurants have reopened, and about 15,000 employees have returned, the association said this week.

"If we had 10,000 more people available, we could put them to work immediately," said Jim Funk, the organization's chief executive.

The restaurant association has established a relief fund to help pay expenses for displaced workers who return to the city. So far the group has given 74 restaurant workers about $200 (euro163) each.

Glen Armantrout has five of his six Acme Oyster House restaurants open but is struggling to keep them staffed. To help, Armantrout has worked out a deal with a Kmart behind one of the restaurants to put 10 FEMA trailers for his staff in its parking lot.

"I'm letting people live at my house while they look for a place," Armantrout said. "Right now, I have an oyster shucker and a cook living with me."

He had an employee-referral program even before Katrina, but has increased the payout from $250 (euro204) to $500 (euro407). Customers as well as employees are eligible to collect.

Barbara Krieger, restaurateur Dickie Brennan's assistant, has become an almost full-time housing coordinator for his restaurants. She tries to track down affordable apartment buildings and has become proficient in FEMA's housing regulations.

"Just after the hurricane it was almost impossible to find affordable apartments," she said. "Now a few more are opening, but some are too far for people to commute if they don't have cars."

Restaurateurs also are working to establish a Hospitality Village just across the Mississippi River from the French Quarter. It would accommodate 300 trailers and provide easy access to the Quarter by ferry, said Ralph Brennan's cousin Dickie, the owner of three French Quarter restaurants.

In the meantime, he said, the shortage of help is making it difficult for his business and his employees alike.

"People are working some long hours because of it, and it's a strain," he said.

Copyright 2006, AP News All Rights Reserved